The Cotswolds 2000
Chapter 3 - Neighboring Towns and Villages
Using Long Compton as a base, we visited a number of the surrounding villages and small towns. However, "a number" represents a very small sample of the total population of villages even in this northern portion of the Cotswolds, for the region is nothing more than a huge patchwork of small communities. The villages and towns we did visit are representative, which is to say we are aware of other villages that we probably should have visited and photographed had we the time. There will be those who might say "But what about Snowshill?", or "You cannot miss Broadway!" Well, there's always next time!
Great Wolford
Located three miles northwest of Long Compton and off the main road, Great Wolford is positioned on high ground overlooking Nethercote Brook, the stream that flows through Long Compton. A compact village, Great Wolford has a fine Nineteenth Century church and a renowned pub, the Fox and Hounds.
We visited the church twice, first in the evening, later on during the morning. This view was captured mid-morning from the public footpath which connects Grea53-00-23.html Little Wolford. At this time the Verger was cutting the long grass around the graveyard and offered to show us around. The church was completely rebuilt in 1831 on the site of a much older church, but using local stone. It has a classic, well-proportioned spire, in contrast to Long Compton's church tower.

As you can see, there was still a lot work to be done clearing up the churchyard!

At the opposite end of the village is the Fox and Hounds, a delightful pub which has evolved into one of the better restaurants in the area. As a result of the controversial aims of the New Labour Government of Tony Blair to ban fox hunting and generally change the die-hard ways of the country, the Fox and Hounds has joined the movement to demonstrate against London.
Pub signs do not not usually make political statements, but this one does! On the western side of the sign, Tony Blair is seen defending the rights of a couple of foxes, who seem to be enjoying their protection.

The eastern side of the sign, unfortunately partly masked by foliage, shows what happens to city folk when they mess around in the country! An interesting observation: why does Tony Blair have only three fingers on each hand? Perhaps the artist can explain?
So much for the sign, here is the Fox and Hounds itself. We enjoyed two meals here, which has a good menu that includes dishes like venison, wild boar, local lamb and more.
Whichford
Located three miles northeast of Long Compton, Whichford is another unspoilt village off the beaten track. Today it is famous for the Whichford Pottery, where fine terracotta ware is hand made and fired from local clays.
Visitors are encouraged to watch the process and one of the potters agreed to having his photograph taken. The following series shows how a potter starts with a heavy lump of clay and creates a work of art (all in about ten minutes):
Hidcote Manor
A little further afield are the fabulous gardens at Hidcote Manor, a National trust property that gets a lot of visitors, many from the United States. Hidcote Manor is famous for its "Arts and Crafts" garden designed by an American (Major Lawrence Johnson) and now hailed as one of England's best ! We first went there on a Tuesday to find that it is closed on Tuesdays! But we did walk around the hamlet of Hidcote Bartrim, finding a quintessential thatched cottage:
Later in the week we went back and here are some photos of the gardens:
Chipping Campden
Unlike all the previously described villages, Chipping Campden is a small town. Located off the main roads it has been well preserved and is one of the favorite tourist locations in the north Cotswolds. But there is a strong local community as well, once all the tourists leave for the day. Here are some photographs taken late in the afternoon when the light was not very flattering - which always makes for a good excuse to return!
Nearly all the buildings are built of Cotswold stone, but one or two have the traditional half-timbered construction which has been painted to fit in. The wool market occupies pride of place in the center of the twon. The detail at top right is presumably the local coat of arms (though the manor house burned down and was never rebuilt). The large parish church of St. James is another testament to the wealth of the Cotswold wool trade.
At this point we leave the Cotswolds and travel fifteen miles to the north and Shakespeare Country. On to Chapter 4
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